Here is the left chrome valve cover with the highway peg and the running light mounted. The lights are a good two inches away from the exhausts.

We removed the wheels and tires.   Found a front bearing going bad.  We had the wheels chromed.  Heated the front wheel to 175 degrees and chilled the bearings so they tapped into place.  Mounted and balanced new Metzler tires.   Here are the assemblies ready to install on our R1100RT.

We will add a BMW Roundel to the rear hub cap after painting it with a chrome paint. We will use clear silicon caulking to secure the Roundel to the cap surface.

This photo does not do the center hub cap justice.  While the chorme paint is not a substitute for real chrome, it is better than the BMW powdercoat.  I smudged some of the silicone on the painted surface and it dulled it a bit.

I finally finished installing the front wheel after two tries.  I reversed the order of the speedometer drive plate and the bearing spring clip.  My speedometer did not work.  I had to read the assembly directions to understand what I did wrong.   If you have anything chromed make sure you identify areas where chrome should not be applied.   Percision areas will be affected by adding a layer of chrome and things may not fit back together.

We had a local shop  www.prostitchauto.com cover all of the seat components using a Carbon Fiber vinyl pattern. They raised the front area and softened the butt area to add comfort and prevent sliding forward.

While the body has yet to be installed I wanted to take it for a test drive.   The sound system work great up to 45 MPH.  At 65 MPH you can catch most of the music with the windshield up.  A stronger amp will take care of that, but I think I will leave it like it is.

We trailered the R1100RT down to Gateway BMW, St. Louis MO www.gatewayBMW.com to give it the once over.  It has a slight miss on idle and initial accelleration and want them to look at it.